Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
